After
a luxuriously late and leisurely start and what’s turning into the usual
hard-boiled egg/cheese/tomato breakfast, we drove the short distance from Assos
to Behramkale. Up top of the hill here is a temple to Athena, but though there
are picturesque pillars around the marble floor, and tumbles of stones in the
grass, and it’s all so, so old, 6th century BC, it’s upstaged by the
location. We looked out over the Aegean towards the island of Lesbos and Greece
itself, and towards the Gallipoli peninsula, and along the coast.
To
get there, we climbed up the cobbled road that winds through the village where
all the people, it seemed, had set up stalls selling souvenirs, food and
handicrafts. Women in headscarves were crouched on the ground knitting pretty
scarves of satin ribbon, or demonstrating toy spinning tops, or gesturing quite
shyly towards their goods. One stall had huge striped wooden spiders that were
really quite gruesome, but a lot of the stuff was attractive.
It
really was so lovely, to sprawl on a beanbag in the sunshine, drinking a tulip
glass of tea, and watch not just the people, but the cats, chickens, dogs and
turkeys (!) doing their own things around the edges of the human activity. The
birds were singing, then the muezzin began the call to prayer…
And
then we had a free afternoon, to snooze, do laundry, wander across the road to
the beach to enjoy the poppies growing amongst the pebbles. So relaxing.
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