No, sorry, it was today
that was properly teeming. We set off early with our togs on under our clothes
and went up the Pacaya River into the Pacaya Samiria Reserve, a huge wetland, biggest reserve in South America, that’s heaving with creatures. There were birds for Africa, if you see what I
mean, including a tall jabiru which was trying to swallow a too-big fish that
threatened to choke it.
Then we found a pod of pink
dolphins also busily feeding, popping above water much less than their marine
equivalents, clearly pink in the glimpses we got of them. There was a flock of
ungainly hoatzins, like startled chickens with Mohicans, blundering about in a
tree overhanging the river. Cormorants, the rabbits of the river, flew straight
ahead of the boat, not thinking to turn aside; flocks of green parakeets flew
overhead. There were even troupes of spider monkeys, moving fast through the
trees.
We breakfasted in the
skiffs moored under a big fig tree, served fruit, sandwiches and pastries on
woven mats and colourful plates, with glasses of juice and cups of coffees.
Even the woven straw decorations weren’t forgotten, tied around the serviettes. Delfin II is style all the way.
And then we got to the
lake, where we were assured there were no piranhas or caimans, and most of us
leaped in, waving aside the proffered noodles until discovering, almost
immediately, how much hard work it is to stay afloat in warm, fresh water;
after which we all wrapped them around us and wallowed with great pleasure in
the tannin-stained water.
Then, of course, five
minutes after getting back into the boats, we found caimans – not big, but
still caimans. No matter, we were pleased to have another photo opportunity.
Then we worked on catching a shot of the turtles sunbathing on logs, as we
returned to the Delfin II for a “mandatory pre-lunch nap” according to Juan
Luís. The rest of the day was equally dedicated to R&R, even the evening skiff excursion a mellow affair centred mainly on the sunset across the water.
After dinner things changed
suddenly though: the staff put on a concert of remarkable talent and energy,
room attendant Jose the star with his guitar/Pan pipes combo as well as vocals,
Pedro the waiter showing great facility with his guitar, the chef turning out
in a revealing jungle outfit, and even the captain, warming up on percussion, suddenly finding his mojo and leaping into the spotlight with some very lively dancing. It was fun – and yes,
the programme did include ‘Guantanamera’. Of course - what did you expect?
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