The stay began well with a family of
elephants right on the road as we drove to the lodge in the open-topped
LandCruiser with Chris, local man and our guide for the stay. Natalie welcomed
us in the open lounge right beside the Zambezi River, the grassy shore dotted
with elephants grazing and drinking, and the soundtrack provided by grunting,
guffawing hippos in the water. Magic!
There are so many animals around this
unfenced property that at night we have to be escorted to and from our suite,
just in case. Besides elephants, they saw a leopard come through last night,
and there are baboons and hippos. Exciting. And our suite was pretty gorgeous,
too: a Presidential one, Frontier, right at the end of the complex, with canvas walls and
a thatched roof, mozzie net-draped bed, big copper bath, outside solar-heated
shower, private pool, and a day-bed outside for lying in comfort as you watch
the elephants, too close to need binoculars.
Back in the public area, we sat at the bar
over the water and under a huge sausage tree, lights twinkling across on the
Zimbabwe shore, hippos honking, fireflies dancing over head, and ate the best
potato crisps ever, home-made and ridiculously moreish considering the
delicious 3-course dinner to come. We were served that on the deck beside an
open fire, lanterns along the railing, a frog chorus coming out of the
darkness, stars above, the air warm. And then there was music – five men
energetically singing and dancing along to a drum, quintessentially African and
the perfect end to the day.
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