No time for breakfast today – we were straight out on a SunDog Tour of Banff
that left me feeling the town is like Queenstown on steroids, in HD. The towns
are very alike, surrounded by mountains, on the shores of a lovely expanse of
blue water, the buildings are neat and stone-built, and they’re busy with
tourists – but it’s all so much bigger here. The mountains, the river, the
hotels and resorts, and there are more visitors here, from more places. And the
air! On a warm sunny morning as we had today, with the bare peaks still
streaked with white snow, the edges were so sharp and clear, the details so
crisp, that it was like high definition in real life.
We did the usual Banff sights: the Bow Falls (not actually as impressive as
Huka), the Sulphur Mountain gondola, which was high and fast and took us to a magnificent
panorama of mountains, Cascade Mountain towering and distinctive, Mt Rundle an
extraordinary example of uplift. Then there were the trees again, the billions
and zillions of trees, mostly pine but also including poplar and aspen. There
were lakes, hot springs, reflections and waterfalls: all postcard-perfect on a
warm sunny day.
Then I made up for my disappointment last week at Seward, and went on a 3-hour Spray River trailride on Marshall, who had a streaked dark-blonde mane to die for but an
irritating tendency to drift to the right under bushes; and whose intermittent
jog I’m blaming for the actual blister on my behind tonight. But it was glorious to be out in the pine-scented woods, with only birds and distant train
whistles to listen to above the clatter of hoof on rock, following narrow tracks through the tall trees and crossing the blue
river twice, washing off all the mud from the extraordinary ‘mud steps’ cut by
the horses themselves. So never mind the blister, I’m mollified now.
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