Tours by Locals - Vancouver Hiking

The sunshine became more liquid today, so when we arrived back in Vancouver and I met up with Lois of Tours by Locals, she scrapped her original plan of a high-level hike. Instead we went to Deep Cove, a neat and pretty (and expensive) little pocket in North Vancouver surrounded by forest and on the edge of a small bay on Indian Arm.

It’s only 20 minutes from the city centre, but you’d never know it, once you’d climbed up the flight of steps at the start of the Baden Powell trail. We were surrounded by lush, ferny forest, the new tips of the hemlocks brilliant green (also tasty and a great source of vitamin C, according to Lois, who knows all about these things). The trees kept the rain off so we could enjoy the trail that picked its way through rocks and roots. It was a steady climb – very steady, at Lois’s measured and unhurried pace – all the way up to Quarry Rock, a huge bare boulder of granite with a stunning view over the inlet.

The sky had cleared and the water was a pewter sheet textured by the ripples of the yacht fortuitously crossing the bay, of kayakers and stand-up paddle boarders. Deep Cove had a little marina of pleasure boats, there were a few distant skyscrapers poking above a hilltop, other hikers were picnicking on the rock, eating something that smelled delicious, but mostly it was all nature: trees, water, sky. Fabulous.

But, honestly, nowhere near as fabulous as the promised doughnut at Honey's café back in Deep Cove: glistening with honey-glaze on the crisp outside, inside soft and fluffy and perfect. Apparently they also come with maple or chocolate icing, but it’s hard to imagine how such glory could possibly be improved. It was the best doughnut of my life, and my mouth is watering now. Is yours?

Tours by Locals: how to discover the secret delights of a destination that will take your visit to the next level. Friendly, easy-going, interesting and well-informed, Lois is particularly recommended.