Up the wooden hill to Lancashire

This is my bed for the night, thanks to Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon. It's in my room at the Inn at Whitewell, in the Forest of Bowland, which featured in their movie 'The Trip'. We were so taken by the scenery, the places they stayed and the food they ate, that we wanted to follow in their footsteps. So here we are, in this AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty), full of delicious food, sitting in a very congenial room shamelessly eavesdropping on the unintentionally hilarious conversation at the next table, and looking forward to tucking ourselves up into our big four-poster bed and listening to the burbling of the little river running past outside the window.

There was lots of big scenery today, a contrast with yesterday's narrow lanes and looming hills in the Lake District. Now it's moors and open sky and sturdy stone towns like Clitheroe, with a history so long that their museum has locally-found rhino horns and hippo teeth from 120,000 years ago when the climate was warmer.

No mega-species any more: it's just sheep and cattle, rabbits and pheasants, lapwings and blackbirds. I'm looking forward to hearing most of those after I've climbed (literally - the mattress is waist-high) into bed tonight. Although it won't actually be night, since the sun won't set until 9.48pm and it'll be light for ages after that...